Update from Kathmandu

Just a quick update from Kathmandu, two hours after arriving from  Rolwaling after a two day journy by jeep. We did not reach our summit. Ole got water in his lung on the way up (related to an existing throat infection) and we therefore had to descend and stay for a week in the lowlands (Simigaon at 2000 m a s l.). Ole's condition improved and we decided to go high again. After some days acclimatising in the Dragnag valley, it was now or never for an attempt at Likhu Chuli (aka Pig Pherago). We set out to a camp in a col at 5500 a sl. The next day we would have to climb the remaining 1100 meters, mostly 45-60 degree steep snow, and some rock bands (proably max grade III-IV). We started out in the dark, climbing slowly, but soon Ole complained over fatigue and nausea, and I did not feel very well myself. We were simply not acclimatized well enough for 1100 meter of simu soloing. So we climbed down, packed our tent and left for Na and eventually Kathmandu. We did not have enough time for a second attempt. But the peak is still there, as well as lots of other unclimbed peaks! And not to mention the people of Rolwaling. We made many friends among the sherpa-villagers in Beding and Na, and we would love to visit them again.

Halvor

Halvor and Ole on the summit of Yaling Ri (5663), the comfort summit after failing to climb Likhu Chuli.

Ole struggling on Likhu Chuli.

PS, check out the rest of our pictures in the Picasa web album (link in previous post)

Practicalities and festival in Kathmandu

If you plan to get permits etc for climbing peaks in the Nepali Himalaya, do not try to do it under the Dasain festival. It's like christmas for hindus. The country shuts down for 10 days. Except the tourism traps in Thamel - and luckily the Ministry of Tourism, thanks to our well-connected friend Tshering P Bhote. So we got our permits, and are ready to go in one day. Here' our itinary:
Kathmandu-Dolakha-Singati by jeep. Singati to Beding, the capital of Rolwaling, is a 4-5 days hike. We'll set up our "basecamp" in a lodge in the village of Na at 4180 m a sl. See map here: http://maps.google.no/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Bhimeshwor+Road&daddr=27.737289,86.163626+to:27.877928,86.22448+to:27.904631,86.372108+to:27.876411,86.445923+to:27.816722,86.514416+to:27.8045,86.523771&hl=no&geocode=FTtYpgEdB1shBQ;;;;;;&mra=mi&mrcr=5&mrsp=6&sz=15&sll=27.805449,86.516862&sspn=0.027293,0.038409&ie=UTF8&ll=27.805373,86.516991&spn=0.218347,0.307274&t=h&z=12

Likhu Chuli (aka Big Pherago) 6660

Besides from exploring the Rolwaling area, our objective is to climb the peak on the right by the central ridge. Picture is taken from www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com

Photo album

Click on the image to access our Picasa album. We'll upload our images here.